Where: Pakistan
When: 2025
At the mouth of Lake Manchar in southern Pakistan, a gentle lapping of water breaks the silence. A small boat glides through the water, pushed by a long bamboo pole scraping the shallow, muddy canal bed. On board, Bashir Ahmed maneuvers his craft with agility. Each movement is precise, rooted in centuries of tradition. In front of him, a few reed huts stand solitary on the opposite bank.
His Hurro, a slender traditional dugout canoe, is more than just a means of transport. It is the legacy of a people who live to the rhythm of water: the Mohana. Also called Mallah (the name of their boatmen caste) or Mirbahar (literally “lords of the sea”), they have lived for generations on the waters of Lake Manchar—a vast expanse of freshwater, reaching nearly 250 square kilometers—and even more during monsoon season. Nestled at the foot of the Khirthar Mountains in the province of Sindh, this lake— the largest in the country—was long an oasis of life, a unique, nourishing, sacred ecosystem. But this natural sanctuary is dying. And with it, an entire world is slipping away.
On the other shore, his father, Mohamed, is waiting. He is the head of this small community of about fifty souls. The two men settle in the shade of a hut, sitting on a bed of tightly woven ropes. Around them, children run barefoot in the dust.
Mohamed speaks slowly, as if to ensure his words are truly heard. “We were the lords of the lake… This water was sweet, full of fish. It fed us. Our boats were our homes. Like Noah’s Ark, we believed they would never sink. But look now… The lake has turned to poison.”
That poison has a name: the Right Bank Outfall Drain, or RBOD. Built in the 1990s, this canal was initially meant to drain saline water from western Sindh to make its salt-ridden lands cultivable. In reality, it rerouted agricultural wastewater—laden with fertilizers and pesticides—along with industrial effluents and sewage from several major cities in the province directly into Lake Manchar. In just a few decades, the lake’s fragile ecosystem has collapsed. Climate change has only accelerated the collapse. A decrease in rainfall, combined with the construction of two upstream dams on the Indus, has drastically reduced the flow of freshwater into the lake.
Lake Manchar was once a paradise. Fish were plentiful, and migratory birds from distant lands would gather there. Nature and humans thrived in harmony. It was a fragile balance, but a real one. Today, it all seems like a dream—one from which you wake only to realize what has been lost. The loss of a unique, centuries-old way of life that may soon vanish forever.
“What can we do?” sighs Mohammed, his gaze lost in the murky waters of the lake. He knows, deep down, there is little chance of outside help. So he puts his fate in God’s hands: “God is great, our fate rests with Him.” He knows, like all Mohana, that the water will no longer save them. As the sun sets, he keeps believing—perhaps a trace, a breath, a memory will endure.
Full story, both in French and English, available on request.